KELP!

I’m so excited about these new carvings that I am posting pictures of green, freshly carved pots.

I was recently in Santa Barbara, visiting a family member and once again, I saw a lot of kelp washed up.washed up kelp "rope"

Last time I saw it in the water while looking down from the pier. floating kelp It is most likely giant kelp which grows several inches per day!

This time I was struck by the almost formal arrangements that lay in the sand.

formal kelp arrangement

They reminded me of bookplate designs in old books.


When I got home, I looked at photos online taken by people who were swimming amongst the kelp forests.

The difference between beach-bound kelp and underwater kelp is that the blades (or leaves) are floating every which way. Additionally, the blades are often ripped away by the time the kelp has washed up leaving only the rubbery stem and bladders.

In the (extremely copyrighted) underwater photos, you can also see the overlapping as the leaves are actually slightly transparent and although I couldn’t replicate that translucent quality, still, I was really happy with the result.

open vase with kelp decoopen vase versoYou’ll also note that I’ve taken pains to make my carving marks as watery and curvy and flowing as the kelp.open vase kelp

I tried to capture that feeling of motion; the swaying back and forth with the currents and surf.

kelp

I think what makes this pleasing to me and also creates good visual tension, movement and balance is the contrast between these wildly unpredictable twisting and flowing forms  and the dependable regularity of the spacing between each bladder where it comes out from the stem- each one continuing on into a blade. I know there is some correct botanical  term for this…

2nd vase detail

Okay, so I looked up Kelp on Wikepedia I found this:

In most kelp, the thallus (or body) consists of flat or leaf-like structures known as blades. Blades originate from elongated stem-like structures, the stipes. [that’s the word I was looking for!] ……. Gas-filled bladders (pneumatocysts) form at the base of blades of American species….and keep the kelp blades close to the surface, holding up the blades by the gas they contain.

and most interesting to me and other potters :

Through the 19th century, the word “kelp” was closely associated with seaweeds that could be burned to obtain soda ash (primarily sodium carbonate)….The word “kelp” was also used directly to refer to these processed ashes.

and what do you know?  The slip that into which I carved the images of Kelp on contains Soda Ash!!

So I can’t wait until these are fired stay tuned!

Joining Two Thrown Forms

I’m working on something this week that I thought I’d post about:

making really tall thrown forms by throwing two separate pieces and joining them together.

Eric told me something interesting today which I knew happens but never thought about the reason why — technically:

Porcelain is hard to throw tall because- more than other clays-  it just sucks up any moisture you put on it and therefore after about 3 pulls, the platelets (that make up the clay) become too far apart to hold up very well; that is, the more water you add to clay, the softer it gets because the platelets move farther apart to accommodate the water. This is true of any clay but porcelain is one of the worst.

SO- to compensate for my inability to throw really tall work in porcelain, I threw two pieces, measuring the opening on the base  with a callipers

base (drying)

and then making the second piece, which is the top half and will be inverted

top half

I measured the opening so it would match the size of the opening on the base.

Note: I angled the lip – going in and down on the bottom half and in and up on the top half; and then scored the lip.

The angling maximizes the amount of surface area that will bond together – some people add a coil of clay  into the space. I use water to bond the clay but you could use magic water or vinegar to feel secure about the bond.

I left each one attached to its respective bat and let them dry and firm up for about 15 minutes in front of the fan- perhaps longer on a humid day but it’s very cold and dry here today!!

If you throw the base first and then the top, the top will be less dry but that’s okay. It should be a little more flexible and also, it’s not supporting the weight that the base must support.

I reattached the base to the wheel using bat pins (and my trusty but worn Bat Grabber™ instead of clay under the bat.

Then I inverted the top half- it sticks nicely to the bat and lowered it slowly and gently, lining it up as the halves got closer.

lowering the top onto the base

Then, once it’s sitting on there, really lined up, my advice is to blend the edges as much as you can before attempting to remove the top bat.

the 2 pieces joined with bat still attached

I used a needle tool while the wheel was slowly spinning to cut the top piece from the bat- after I got way underneath, I switched to the wire tool  and voila!

form before join is erasedtop before excess has been cut away

Then I cut away some of the excess clay  so that eventually I can throw a better lip at the top.

top after trimming off excess

The next step is to seal that join from the inside as well and then begin to pull up the pot a bit more and also to make the shape you want in the end through doing pulls, using a metal rib. I wanted the form to be wider, have a bit more of a belly so I did several pulls where I was pushing out from the inside and also went over it a lot with a metal rib.

form after join has been erased and form shaped

then, if the clay is not too tired, you can form the lip- also pulling it, choking it in, etc.

*A note on wedging and centering: I attempted to make several of these today- the first 5 pieces of clay I used were, I will confess,  not wedged, as the clay was pretty hard. I did wheel wedge them but they never felt absolutely centered. Close- but then would suddenly manifest some odd wobble or elliptical base.

Then I reclaimed some clay and wedged each piece 50 times- mostly to make sure I got all the clay integrated- porcelain is so fussy. Those pieces with an internal spiral practically centered themselves. They felt well and truly centered and my results were so much better!